Replacing the Boot Gasket on Your Washer

Recently, I was doing a load of laundry when water started leaking from the front of my washer. I put a bucket under it until it was done, and found out that the problem was a small piece of rubber had broken off of the seal on the door (see picture).


After some research, I found that this piece is called a "boot gasket". I ordered it from partstore.com (here's a link to the product page) You can look elsewhere to find it cheaper. It was about $50 with shipping. Your washer is a Bosch WFL2060UC.

If you want to attempt to replace this yourself to save money, it requires few tools, but the difficulty is a little hard. Why? It's because of the fact that you'll be working in the small space between the drum and the opening in the door. I'll explain as I go along, but know this going in - it isn't the easiest of projects.

So you've decided to do it? Good for you. The first thing you want to do is to remove the metal ring that holds the gasket to the front of your washer. If you look closely, there's a small spring that holds it in place (where my finger is in the picture.)


I used two needle-nosed pliers to get it off, by holding onto one end of the metal ring and pulling the spring up with the other.

Once that metal ring is off, you'll need to remove a large spring that is wrapped around the back of the gasket towards the drum. It's pretty tight, but I just stuck a screwdriver between the gasket and the lip holding it in place and pulled back, and it released the spring and gasket. After the spring is loose, the gasket can be easily removed. Pay attention to how everything fits in place before you go ahead and rip it out though (so you'll remember how to put it back in.)

Now for the hard part - putting it back on.

If you look at the picture below, you'll see that the spring fits in a little groove all around the gasket like this. The difficulty is that you have to do this is the confined space that you see in the pictures.

The first thing you need to do is put your gasket back in (don't worry about the spring yet). If you look at your gasket, there are three drain holes which need to be facing the bottom of your washer. Make sure they are on the bottom.

The next step is to seat your gasket in the lip that goes around the washer. If you look at the fourth picture (the one with the screwdriver) you'll see the lip. It's a brownish-gray metal ring that goes around your drum. Find the part of the gasket that needs to go in there (the part where your spring will eventually go (see picture below)) and fit it in there with your fingertips. Get it in there snugly (you'll feel it when it goes in the lip) and once you get one part in there, guide the rest around from that point in a circle. You don't have to stretch it hardly at all.

Now comes the spring. This is the most difficult thing you'll have to do. If you have your gasket in place, you'll feel the groove that the spring is supposed to fit in. You'll need to go under the gasket and try to stretch this very tight spring around the entire thing to hold it in place. Let me explain my method and the difficulties.

The gasket is a big rubber ring, and you're going to have to stick your hands under it and work all the way around it trying to stretch this very tight spring, while keeping it in the groove, joining the ends with all that tension, and finally fitting it in place.

Here's what I did. You might find something that works better for you.

Tie a piece of fishing line around one end of the spring and tie the other end to the door. (See picture below) It will be a lot of force, so make sure it's something that can take the stress. I used several pieces of fishing line. This allowed me to tug on the spring with one hand and hold it in place with the other, while keeping the other end tight.

Pulling the spring tightly (but not too tightly) put it in the groove where you want to start and hold it in place with your other hand. From your starting point, keep pulling the spring as much as you can and sliding your other hand over the tightened area to keep it in place. This takes a lot of hand strength. Keep pulling with one hand and holding it in place with the other hand, working it all the way around. Surprisingly enough, the rubber helps to hold it in place to a degree. Pull too much, or at the wrong angle though, and the whole thing will snap out of place and you'll have to start all over again, so be careful.

Once you're a little more than 3/4 of the way around, attach the two ends of the springs. Make sure to keep holding it into place because you don't want the whole thing to snap out after all that work! Since you have enough of the spring wrapped around the rest of the lip, this should allow you to stretch the attached ends of the springs over the rest of the lip with two hands. Remember to always keep that tension on the springs though. Once you've fit the entire spring around the lip, clip the string and check to make sure the spring is entirely in the groove.

Some advice I would offer on this part of the project would be to make sure the string you use will allow you to make that last pull of the spring so it can fit over the lip. Don't tie it too short or you'll be stuck.

Another thing I would recommend is to fold the rubber carefully in toward the washer. (See picture below) Since you'll have to work around the outside of the circle, it gets in the way a lot and can be frustrating. Keep working with it, and it should look like the picture below.

If you've gotten the big spring in place, rejoice! You're almost home. Now all you have to do is put the metal ring back on. Unfold the rubber and it should fall nicely into place. On the outside of the door is a very small lip that the gasket fits into. Put it in place, working it all the way around. Finally, get your metal ring ready to put over the gasket.

This time put the whole ring together first, put it around the gasket as much as you can and pry the rest into place with a chopstick.

That's how you replace your boot gasketfor your Bosch front loading washer. It's a little frustrating and a bit time consuming (It took me about two and a half hours) but it wasn't horrible.

District Directory for the 63rd District

Our lovely state representative sent a district directory for 2010 in the mail. I was getting ready to toss it (who needs more junk in their loft?) when I thought it might be a good resource for the Motor community.

If you have any political issues or questions - like contacting a city official - this guide might help you out.

Here's a link to the directory. You might need to hit "zoom" to be able to read the phone numbers.

Spring Cleaning

Spring time is here, and you might want to think about changing your air filter. I know we all get busy, but this is something that needs to be done on a regular basis. If your filter is too dirty, you make your HVAC unit work harder to pull air up. This strains your system, and eventually holes will develop in your filter, which lets all kinds of dirt get into your ducts.

I believe that it's recommended that you change your filters once a month, but I think you can go a little longer than that depending upon how dirty they are. Put your hand under the filter when the unit is running to make sure that it has a good air flow.

Make sure you get a 16x20x1" filter, and if you forget, you can check this article on your phone!

++Some other helpful reminders while at the store:

Floodlights are 60 watt halogen indoor/outdoor - Remember that the floodlights should last for 2 years, so if your floodlight goes out, tap it, spin it, and flick the switch near the base of the bulb before replacing them.

Candelabra bulbs are 60 watt also

Fire Alarms and Sprinkler System

After the incident last week, I was curious about our fire alarms and sprinkler systems. What sets them off? How can we turn them off? I guess it's better to ask these questions now instead of when something happens.

Between research on the Internet, personal experience, and asking Jenni, I think I have a good idea of how this system works.

It seems the smoke alarms and sprinkler systems are on two different systems. The smoke alarms sense smoke and alert you, but do not set off the sprinklers. The sprinklers are activated by heat. The little red glass tubes, that you see in the picture, will break when heated by flame. This releases water onto the fire. Only the areas affected by heat and flames will release water. (I can't say I'm 100% sure of this, but I'm guessing I'm right)

This sets off the building's alarms and alerts the fire department. They are the only ones who can turn off the sprinklers.

Let's face it, almost everything in this building is made of stone, metal, glass or drywall. There's not too much to worry about with fire in this building, but after last week, I guess we do have to think about water damage. It would probably take a good 10-15 minutes before the water is turned off, and in the mean time, all your stuff is soaked.

As Jenni suggested, you might want to carry renter's insurance or condo insurance just to be on the safe side.

Dusting Off the Scooter

It seems there are only a handful of scooters sitting in the garage, but I thought I'd write on the subject of getting the scooter running after a long winter.

Remember, it's not good to leave gasoline sitting for a long time. The air changes the chemical composition, and it starts to become turpentine, which is not good for your engine at all.

Knowing this, I still got busy last year, and left about a quarter tank in my scooter before winter hit.

I took a ride down to our local auto parts store on Delmar (about four blocks away)

Carquest Auto Parts
1701 Delmar Blvd, Saint Louis, MO 63103
(314) 421-3493

They're very helpful, and I explained that I left some gas in the tank over the winter. The guy there suggested this product called Sea Foam, which is a 100% pure petroleum product that cleans out everything in the fuel. It's a little pricey ($8 a bottle) but he says it will do the trick. It only takes a few ounces to clean up your engine, so if anyone needs any, I still have a bottle just sitting there.

If you've left gasoline in your scooter for more than a year or two, you might want to think about syphoning the gas out, taking it to a local garage to recycle, and starting anew. Ask an expert before you do.

The next step I needed to do was charge my battery. Under your seat you should have received a battery charger. This is a black box that has a cord on one end and a round plug-in jack on the other end. As you can see in the picture, what you need to do to charge your battery is to plug one end of your charger into the wall and the other into the little receptacle under your seat. Let it charge for a few hours.

Another option is your kick start. I don't know if this is a traditional kick start or if it just charges your battery. This is located on the left side of your scooter by your kickstand. Neil and I tried on his bike, and were a little confused by it. If you want to try it, stand on your bike with the kickstand off, and press down really hard with your foot. It's difficult to do, and the kickstand seems to get in the way. Tell me if this works for you.

After all of this, the scooter still didn't turn over on the first few tries. It took a lot of encouraging (at least 6-10 tries with the starter) but each time got better and finally it started. Once your battery is charged, taking it for a ride every now and then will keep the battery happy.

I filled it up with some fresh gas - I prefer 92 octane because it give it a little more pep - and I was on my way. Don't forget to keep up with the maintenance of your scooter. If you need some tips, you can look at the old blog post from last year *link*

One last thing you might check is the float in your gas tank. This controls the needle on your gas gauge. Sometimes it sticks, and you think you have more gas in your tank than you actually do. I forgot to look, and ran out of gas a few miles from home. Walking a scooter home (there were no gas stations along the way) was not a fun experience. There is a way to fix it, but it requires taking the tank off, so the easy way is to unscrew the cap and see how much gas you have left.

Wear your helmet, watch out for cars, potholes, gravel, etc. Take it easy on your ride and have fun on your bike this summer!

Where do I go for....?

Since we have some new residents in the building, I thought I'd share some thoughts on places to go for life's little necessities. Besides this blog, Greensheet, a publication by one of our building members, is a helpful guide to everything downtown, and you can always pick up one in the lobby.

Walgreens

We all eventually need medicine, double-sided tape, or large bags of candy. Where else but Walgreens? The closest I've found is on Lindell near the Central West End, about five minutes away.

(Update Dec. 2009) There's also a new Walgreens at 1530 Layfayette, at Truman and Lafayette in Soulard. Jefferson to Chouteau (east), and turning right on eith Truman or Tucker should get you there. It's a bit trickier driving than the one on Lindell.

Food

If you feel like an outdoor market, try Soulard Market. You can read my earlier article by following this link.

Sometimes, however, you just want a grocery store or supermarket.

Culinaria is here. It is a Schnucks market located at 9th and Olive. I usaully take Olive straight down because there are many one-way streets in the area. Heading east on Olive, the garage will be on your left, just past 10th Street. Parking is free (just present your receipt when exiting the garage). The prices and variety of food are excellent. Culinaria also has a lot of prepared food, and I believe you can eat it there if you like. There's a wine section, a pharmacy, and just about anything you might need.Since it's a city store, the aisles can be crowded at times, and you can't take your cart to the garage, so make sure you can carry everything to your car. If you can't, however, they are very courteous at this store, and will probably offer to help you. Checking out is fast and efficient. All-in-all, this is a great thing to have in the city, and I want to thank Schnucks for investing in the downtown area

City Grocers - (update Dec. 2009) I haven't been to City Grocers in a while. I believe they deal now more in specialty foods since they don't want to compete with Culinaria. It's located on Olive catty corner to Culinaria.

Schnucks

Since the opening of Culinaria, there is no longer the need to make the drive to Schnucks anymore, unless you happen to be in that area, or are buying a whole bunch of stuff and want to take it directly to your car. Of the three closest to us, the Lindell location is probably the easiest to get to. I've never been in this particular one however. I like the Arsenal location on the Hill. It's close to my job, and has a good selection of food. They also have a whole section devoted to Italian food. (If you're in that area, and you're interested in Italian grocery stores you can check out Viviano or Di Gregorio)

Straub's - Straub's is located in the Central West end, and has upscale specialty foods.

Vincent's - Located on 12th Street, this is a go to place for "Soulardians". Again, I've never been there, so I can't tell you what it's like.

Jay International Food - This store specializes in food from around the world. Need a big bag of basmati rice or a special ingredient to make sushi? For items like these, this is the place to go. It has a ton of exotic foodstuffs, and is just a few minutes away on S. Grand.

Liquor

Of course you can get liquor at the little stores like Lucas Park (on Washington Ave.) or City Grocer, but if you're looking for a store with a huge collection, try Randall's on S. Jefferson. You'll fall to your knees and thank the liquor gods. Culinaria (on 9th and Olive) can also now serve your liquor needs.

Gas

All the driving around will require some gas for your car. There are not as many gas stations as you would think there would be in downtown St. Louis. Luckily for us, there is one very close. (Letter D on the map) Just a few blocks up on Delmar and Jefferson, there's plenty of gas. This station is often crowded, and some residents might be wary of going there at night. Other locations are on Chouteau and downtown Jefferson.

Update Dec. 2009 - There is now a new BP gas station on Jefferson, just south of Hwy 64 /40. It is new and very close.

Auto Repair / Mechanic

I've only been to a mechanic once since living here to get an oil change. I went to Turpin's on Olive. Since then, they've merged with another garage and moved to Locust. The new company is Lawler and Balthasar . I know they've been in business for a long time and seem to have a good reputation. When I went for my inspection, they were courteous and professional.

Hardware

Google suggests True Value on Connecticut (near Arsenal by Tower Grove Park) and Hanneke on Southwest (near Kingshighway). Usually I just ride the highway to a Lowe's. The one off of Hwy 64 /40 and Hanley can now be more easily accessed since the highway has been re-opened.

Maintaining Your Abode

A few issues were asked during the association meeting about general maintenance of the lofts, so I thought I'd do a quick overview of some home maintenance tips.

Track Lights - According to my friend, who is an electrician, track lighting can be a little sensitive at times. What I've noticed is that bulbs that I think have gone out, really haven't. Just flick the switch at the top of the bulb, or even touch it, and it will go back on. I heard someone say they've replaced all of their track light bulbs already, but I have yet to change even one.

Dryer

I never received an owner's manual for the washer / dryer, so if anyone wants to share any pertinent information or links to the Bosch website, that would be great.

Here's what I do know.

#1 - Clean out your lint trap frequently (picture above) This helps keep air flowing, and helps your dryer to not overheat.

#2 - Clean out lint trap #2. This involves opening up the door on the bottom left side of your dryer, turning the two light-blue hinges, and removing a tray.

This stuff will build up fast, so help extend the life of your dryer by taking care of it.

Hot Water Heater - Not enough hot water to fill that big tub all of the way? One way to help out is to turn up the temperature of your hot water heater.

WARNING - Make sure you read the warnings on your heater. Basically, if you turn up the temperature too much someone could unwittingly turn the faucet all the way to "Hot" when washing their hands and burn themselves.

Another aspect to consider is your dishwasher. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't be affected, but it is something to consider.

Okay, if that didn't scare you away, then get a Phillips screwdriver, and remove the two screws holding in the bottom plate (see picture). Inside, you'll see a Styrofoam cover with a little handle on it. Remove the Styrofoam and you'll see something similar to the picture above. There should be a dial in that can be turned from"C" to "A", and after that, it just says "Hot" Turn it to a level of your choosing, and wait a few hours for the tank to heat up. Test the water for both safety and practicality (ex. does it fill up my bathtub, and does it not burn me when the faucet is turned to "Hot")

Obviously this will increase your electric bill, so you might reverse the process in the summertime to save some money.

Kitchen Lights - Kevin assured us that there was a surprisingly easy way to change our kitchen lights. I've thought long and hard about this, and unless there is some special tool that can reach up inside, then you'll have to take the light apart.

Get a ladder, unscrew two of the pins, remove the clear cylinder, place it on a table, remove the last pin and the white glass. Inside there is a 40 W candelabra bulb. You'll notice that your bulb will say "Type G", but that just refers to the shape of the bulb (ex. some are straight and some have curly tips, etc.) so any candelabra bulb will do.

Replace the bulb, the white glass, and one pin. Now here's where it gets tricky. While holding the clear glass cylinder with one hand, insert a pin through the holes and try to line it up with the screw hole. Everything will want to spin and twist, so take your time. You might need to twist the top a little bit before you try putting the glass on to make sure the holes are lined up. Good luck!

HVAC Filter - This filters the air that gets blown when using your heating and cooling system. Jerry recommended changing it every month; I'd say, depending on how dirty it gets, change it every season. One thing that might help extend the life of your filter is to vacuum behind and around the water heater and washer. A lot of dust accumulates in that area, especially with the dryer being there.

Changing the filter is easy. Remove the two screws at the bottom, remove the filter, and replace with a new one. Make sure you know size of your filter before going to the store (16 x 20 x 1) and pay attention to the filter you remove, so you know how the new one should go back in.

Remember, a filter needs to be able to create an air flow. If it looks like your filter is being sucked up, and you can't feel a draft with your hand when the unit is working, then you need to replace your filter. If you make your unit struggle too much, it could break prematurely.

Water Filter - Inside your refrigerator is a water filter. It's on the top right side. by the lightbulb. Press the button to the left of the GE symbol and the flap will fall open. If the filter wasn't already installed, you'll need to remove the cover that shipped with the unit. I found I was unable to do it with my fingers, so I had to use a pliers. The space is pretty tight, so you might want to remove your top shelf before trying this feat. After the shipping plug is removed, insert your new filter. The manufacturer recommends replacing the filter every six months. The cost is around $40 per filter, but some places give you a discount if you buy in bulk. Here's a link for a GE GSWF Water filter.

P-Traps - Kevin mentioned that if you are gone for an extended time, the water in your P-trap (below your sink) may evaporate, thus allowing sewer gas to rise through your plumbing. Simply run the water for a few minutes, and the water will block any gasses from coming up.

That's all I can think of for now. If you have ideas to share about home maintenance, post a comment below.

Soulard Market

I know you know, but do you go? Looking for something for a good, quick dinner, but don't feel like running out to the supermarket? Why not give Soulard Market a try?

I takes a little bit of effort, but in less than 30 minutes you can have enough fresh fruit and vegetables to have a nice dinner.






Five dollars will get you a decent amount of food. The picture you see to the left is seven dollars worth of food. (The asparagus was an extra two dollars) I'm sure there are better bargains if you want to hunt, but for me, the experience is strolling up and down the market looking for what looks best. Be aware that not all of the fruit and vegetables are grown in the area, but there are local farmers selling local and organic produce.

Saturdays get crowded, but all the weekday afternoons I've gone, have been pleasant, and in no way hurried.

Take the scooter; it will give you a destination, and help save on gas.

Soulard Market is open Wed. - Fri. 8:00 - 5:00 and Sat. 6:00 - 5:00

Utility Closets

Just an FYI - be careful about storing large objects in your Utility/Laundry Closets... suitcases, etc. They can shift the pipes in the closet, creating leakage issues for the unit below.

Trying to do my Part as a Good Neighbor

When we were moving to the loft, I debated on what things I should bring.

Tools are one of those things that are great when you are using them, but then sit around and take up space in the meantime. I'm glad I have them - they've proven invaluable for the projects I've completed - but I often think I could get more utility out of them through sharing with the neighbors.

If you need a tool for one project, but don't feel like buying it and storing it, give me a call.

Some specific things I think my be beneficial to my neighbors here in the Motor Lofts community are:

• A dolly - (see photo) for carrying heavy objects to your loft. Add some ratchet straps to secure your cargo to the dolly and you can move mountains.
• An air compressor - Need to fill your tires on your car, scooter, or bike?
• Ladder
• Things you might use once in a blue moon - chisel, rubber mallet, hack saw

call @ 621-4028, email me through the info. on my profile

More Scooter Talk

I know, another scooter article, but let me just say that maintaining your scooter isn't as hard as you might think, and if anyone needs any help, feel free to ask.

This article is a step-by-step for basic maintenance of your Popcycle scooter.


My scooter hit 186 miles, so it was time for some routine maintenance.


Changing the Oil

Changing the Oil

1. (You might want to ride your scooter a bit to heat up the oil and make it flow a little better, but watch out for the hot engine and exhaust pipe!!!) Put your scooter on the double kickstand.

2. Remove the oil cap located on the right side of your bike (this is also how you check your oil level) and put it on some newspaper.

3. Put some sort of tub beneath your engine to catch the oil (at least 1 quart, but I used a 6 qt. that I got from the dollar store)

4. On the bottom of your engine ("oil out" in the picture) is an 11/16" bolt or plug. Unscrew the oil plug with a socket wrench. Oil will start to come out pretty fast, so have your pan ready! Remove the plug and let oil drain completely.

5. After a few minutes, replace the plug. (The plug has a spring, so it's a bit tricky)

6. Measure out 20.3 oz of 10w-30 motor oil (the manual recommends 10w-30 for 4-stroke engines, but the guy at the auto parts store says there is no difference). Put a funnel in the place where you removed your oil cap and pour in the oil. Replace your oil cap. It's just that easy!

.

Changing the Crankcase Fluid

This is a little harder to find. It is located on the left side of your scooter, towards the back. The drain is on the bottom (where my finger is) and the fill is two bolts up from the drain.

1. Put your drain pan under the crankcase and remove the bolt where you "fill" the fluid. (The bolt size is 10 mm) You'll know you have the right one if fluid starts to drain. Put the bolt aside and note how it looks, so you don't confuse it with the other bolt later.

2. Remove the drain plug for the crankcase and let the fluid run out.

3. Replace the drain plug, and measure out 5.03 oz. of #10 machine oil or GY gear oil.

4. Now here's where it gets a bit tricky. The "fill" hole is on the side, and you need to put fluid in a hole on the side of your scooter. I've been told there are funnels with flexible nozzles made for this purpose, but I got by on a paper funnel, a flexible drinking straw and some duct tape. : ) Slowly pour all 5.03 ounces into the crankcase.

5. When you have filled the crankcase, have your bolt ready. Quickly remove your funnel (fluid will start coming out!) and replace the bolt. You are done!


Cleaning Your Air Filter


This is easy. The air filter is located on the left side of your scooter.


1.Using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver, remove the five or six screws holding the cover on the air filter. Inside you'll see a spongy thing (which is your air filter)

2. Take out the filter, and clean it with a solvent to remove any grease (there was none on mine, but the "solvent" the guy at the parts store recommended was gasoline) and later wash with soap and water to remove any dust or dirt.

3. Let it dry and put it back inside.


Adjusting Your Mirrors

If your mirrors aren't helping you out, and you have to lean to see, then they need adjusting. It can be as simple as twisting the mirror on the swivel, but if that does not work, you might need to take it one step further.


1. lift up the rubber cap that covers the nut for the mirrors.

2. Take an 9 / 16" wrench and unscrew the nut that holds the mirror on the handle.

3. Twist the mirrors until you can effortlessly see behind you.

4. Hold the mirror firmly in place and tighten with the wrench.

5. It might take a few adjustments because you might have a different posture riding the bike (I tend to lean forward a little bit) before you get it the way you want it.


Charging Your Battery

I haven't had to do it yet, but if you haven't been riding your scooter in a while, you might need to charge it. Look under your seat, there should be a black box with a cord. Plug one end into the jack under your seat (it almost looks like an RCA jack on the back of your TV), plug the other end into an electrical outlet. I think it only takes a few hours.

Checking Your Tires

This is an important part of keeping your Popcycle safe and efficient. Use a tire gauge to check your tire pressure. Both tires should be at 36 psi. If they're not, fill with air.

Fixing a Stuck Gas Gauge

I tried running the fuel down in my Popcycle over the winter, and my gas gauge was stuck on "E". All I did was stick a coat hanger in and loosened up the float, and it seems to be back to normal again.

And Finally...

I'm sure I'll add a few things later on. I hope this helps a few of you.

*Remember, your Popcycle scooter is pretty much a TN'G Venice LX 4-stroke, so if you need to find any parts or service for it, you might want to go in that direction.

Because I've reached the limits of what I can find out about this bike from the Internet, I've decided to purchase a Haynes Guide, which might help me to figure out the exact model of this scooter. I'll let you know if there is any valuable information in it, and if you're interested in looking at it, feel free to contact me.

Let's Talk Popcycle

I really like my scooter - I really do. It was a nice perk for buying the loft. It's a great way to cruise around and see downtown on a few pennies worth of gas.

Some of you ride your scooters, and judging by the looks of a few of the scooters, it seems others haven't taken theirs out yet. Whatever your situation, you might want to follow a few maintenance checks to make sure your scooter stays running.

#1 - Burn off your old gasoline. Gas, believe it or not, goes bad after sitting in your tank for a while. If you have gas in your tank from last fall, you could encounter problems later on. There is an additive that will extend the life of your gasoline for about three months, and that might get you through winter. Also, when you fill up again, use 90 octane gas. The owner's manual recommends 90 octane, so pay the extra 10 cents.

#2 - Change your oil. The owner's manual suggests changing your engine oil and gearbox oil every 300 km (186 miles), but if it's been over a year, I'd recommend changing it anyway.

#3 - Misc. Maintenance - There's a wealth of information about adjusting throttle, idle, brakes etc. in the owner's manual. There's also a list of things to do if you will not be using your scooter for an extended period of time.

All this information is on the Popcycle website (owner's manual and parts list) but you might want to secure a copy of the information before the website goes down. If anybody has any questions, ask me.

#4 Parts - Popcycle Motor Co. is no longer in business, so you will have to find your own parts. Any shop you go to in the area might not be helpful.  Make sure you find one that will work on Chinese scooters.

Here's what you need to know about your Popcycle. It's a scooter made of Chinese parts. I'm still trying to find some sort of name for the type of scooter, so I can confidently give you a link in which to find the correct parts.

I'll put a link to a website I found that specializes in Chinese scooter parts. Like I said, until I can be certain of some sort of generic name for the Popcycle scooter, you will have to rely on descriptions from vendors and your parts list.

Perhaps a motorcycle shop might be able to help you, but remember, most of those places charge about $70 per hour and they will have to order your parts.

------

Take care of your scooter, and it will give you a few hundred miles of cheap transportation. Remember to keep it in good running condition (this means charging the battery, changing the oil, storing it during winter) or you might run into difficulties that might prove to be very complex later on.


***Update***

After a little research today, I've found a few models that are similar to the Popcycle. The Verucci VC50fs-10a has a similar structure, but a different body molding.

One that is surprisingly similar, however, is the Tank Urban Classic 50. It looks almost exactly like the Popcycle, except for the speedometer.

This parts website might also be helpful

***Update #2***

Okay, I'm on the right trail. If you look on your VIN plate, you'll see that your scooter was made by CMSI. CMSI produces a line of scooters called TN'G (short for Twist n' Go). In the TN'G line, there is a model called the Venice.

There is the Venice 49cc and the Venice LX. In some ways, the Popcycle is very much like the 2006 Venice LX, especially when you look at the control panel. But other parts of the Venice LX are different (like the spark plug type, the look of the mirrors and the handlebars, and the model number)

Although our scooters are a 2006 model (according to the plate), the model number is surprisingly close to the 2007-2008 Venice 49 cc models. The Popcycle is model # VN494 and the Venice is model # VN492.

I'm 95% there, but I still cannot find a specific match for the Ppocycle. If you are looking for parts, however, rest assured knowing that your scooter is manufactured by CMSI and is very, very close to the Venice models of their TN'G branch.

I'll put a link for TN'G in the "Links" section too.